Description
The very steep limestone face offers some beautiful, exposed climbs. Be careful, however, as the ratings are generally on the high side.
Cliff: Large cliff
Starting elevation: 1,600 m
Number of routes: 21
Route lengths: 220 to 300 m
Difficulty / Grade: 6a to 7c
Rock Type: Limestone
Exposure: Southeast
Approach Time: 25 minutes
Open: May through October
Children: Very dangerous
Rates
Free access.
—
Openings
Subject to favorable weather
Location
Plan interactif : 1 lieux répertoriés.
- Lieu sans nom
Spoken languages
Spoken languages
Environment
Environment
- Forest location
Access
Access
- As you leave the hamlet of Romme sur Cluses heading toward Le Reposoir, take the vehicle-accessible path on the left toward Vormy. Take a forest road that’s passable by car but in fairly poor condition in places, passing under the ski lift (avoid cars with low ground clearance; parking is available just past the second right-hand turn if the road gets too rough a little further up; otherwise, allow an hour’s walk from the paved road to the top of the cliff).
From the parking lot at the Cabane des Vuardes: from the chalet, head back toward Romme for 50/100 m and take the trail that branches off to the right (short climb, then descent). Follow it to the large couloir (the entrance is hard to find because it’s poorly marked) to reach the base of the cliff face. There are a few old cables in the couloir. At the bottom of the couloir, 20 m past a slab, turn left (cable). You’ll reach the left end of the cliff face (15 min from the cabin), which you’ll follow along (5 to 10 min). Note: Be sure to follow the main trail, and do not take the trails branching off to the left—these are the ones formed by climbers taking shortcuts on their way back from the routes.
To access it via rappel: On the forest trail, at the last hairpin curve (the third) to the right, follow (on foot) a trail to the left that quickly leads to a meadow, which you cross. At a fork, go left for the Plénitude rappels (slight descent followed by flat terrain, marked with red), or right for the Plein gaz rappels (ascent, then mostly flat, then a short ascent, then a short descent until you reach the summit belay station of Dérive; two meters upstream, descend 10 m toward the drop-off to reach a handrail that leads to the start of the rappels; green markings from the fork onward).
